Sewing-machine.



H. F. GRUMAN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION- FILED JAN- 11. I915.

1,199,782. v Patented Oct. 3,1916.

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H. F. GRUMAN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN-8| r915.

1,199,782. Patented 0&1. 3,1916.

4 SHHHS SHEET 2.

H. F. GRUMAN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN8,19I5.

1 1 99,782 Patented Oct. 3, 1916.

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HORACE F. GRUMAN, 0F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-FOU RTH TO DAVID R. COHEN AND ONE-FOURTH T0 SOLOMA'N R. COHEN, BOTH OF DETROIT,

MICHIGAN.

' SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent;

Patented Oct. 3, 1916..

Application filed January 8, 1915. Serial No. 1,069.

certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to an improved attachment for sewing machines which will, in a single operation, produce what is commonly known as a. flat or French fell seam. Heretofore, a seam of this character has been obtained by two separate and distinct operations. First, thetwo pieces of fabric to be joined, are placed together with the lower ply usually extended an eighth of an inch beyond the upper ply, and stitched together in a plain machine a given distance from the edge, varying according to the desired width of the finished joining. Secondly, the sections that have been joined in this manner are opened out flat, with the margin or joined portions extending upwardly. The operator then, by bending over and turning under the edges of said margin, stitches it down to either one or the other section of the garment, thereby making a durable and much desired felled joining with two stitched seams, but only one visible on the right side of the garment. The principal objection to the general use of this finish is that it is too costly for the average manufacturer as it requires two dis tinct operations at double the cost of any similar finish.

My improved device accomplishes the finish in one operation, and at high speed, hence overcoming the objections of the use of the seam as above enumerated, and. permitting the same to be used in all ordinary sewing at an extremely low cost.

A further object is to provide an improved device of the character stated which can be used in connection with anyordinary style of sewing machine, and which can, with but slight modification, be adapted for" use with any of the well known types of machine on the market.

With these and other objects in view, the

invention consists in certain novel features of construction and combinations and arrangements of parts as will be more fully hlereinafter described and pointed out in the c aims.

In-the accompanying drawngs: Figure 1 is a view in end elevation illustrating-my improvements in connection with a well known type of sewing machine, the end plate of the head being removed to illustrate the parts behind the same. Fig; 2is a fragmentary view in elevation at right angles to Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a view in transverse section through the drive shaft taken on the line 33 of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a view in horizontal transverse section on the line 4-4: of Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a view in vertical longitudinal section on the line 55 of Fig.4. Fig. 6 is a view in .vertical transverse section on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4. Fig. 7 is a perspective view illustrating my improved presser foot. Fig. 8 is a bottom plan view of the presser foot on a reduced scale. Fig. 9 is an exaggerated view illustrating the seam which is made by my improved device.

My improved device is adapted for use in connection with any ordinary style of sewing machine, and hence I have illustrated and will describe only such portions of the sewing machine as are. necessary to coiiperate with my improved device or attachment.

1 represents the head of a sewing machine having a covering plate 2 removably secured over the open end of the head.

3 is the drive shaft projecting into the head, and to which an eccentric 4 is secured.

5 is a balance secured to the shaft 3, and connected by a. link 6 with the ordinary needle bar 7. -The balance. performs the function of a crank disk to impart the necessary reciprocating movement to the needle bar, and balance the .weight of the latter.

8 represents the ordinary presser bar having the ordinary lever 9 to elevate the same, but in lieu of the ordinary presser foot, I secure to the lower end of the presser bar 8, my improved presser foot 10 which will be hereinafter described.

On the back of the head 1, I secure a metal plate 11 by means of screws'12. This plate 11 is provided with relatively long bearings 13 for a rocker shaft 14. A rocker arm 15 is secured to the shaft 14 between the bearlngs l3, and at its upper end is' Connected by a.

the bracket 18, and when the screw 20 is screwed home, the presser foot is securely clamped and rigidly held at the lower end of the presser bar 8.

21.represents a curved needle lever which is provided near one end with a bearing 22 positioned on the presser bar 8, so that the lever 21 is free to oscillate on the presser -bar. The shorter end of this lever .21 is connected by a link 23 with an arm 24, depending from shaft 14 above referred to. Thls link 23 is composed of two end sections 25 and 26 respectlvely, connected by an inter- :mediate section 27, the latter having screwthreads at its respective ends engaging in the end sections 25 and 26 to permit of the adjustment of the length of the link to suit the conditions. The end section 25 constitutes a sectional socket engaging a ball 28 on a laterally projecting enlargement 32 on the end of arm 24, and end section 26 constitutes a sectional socket engaging a ball 29 on a stud 30 journaled in a recess 31 in the shorter end of lever 21. This particular construction of ball and socket joint reduces friction to a minimum and compensates for the varying movements of the joints.

The lever 21, at its longer end, supports a horizontally disposed curved needle 33 secured to the lever by means .of a set screw 34. The needle 33 reciprocates through an opening 35 in a'vertica'l flange 36 at one side. of. the presser foot 10, and reciprocates through a. recess 37 in a presser plate 38 p0- sitioned vertically beside the flange 37 and between which plate 38 and the flange, the portions of the fabric to be seamed are fed as will be-hereinafter described. The plate 38 is elastic and flexible, and joined to a lever 39. This lever 39 has a vertically positioned bearing sleeve 40 between its ends mounted to turn on a vertical post 41 on presser foot 10, and secured by means of a screw 42. The rear end of the lever 39 is held against a cam 43 by means of a spring 44,'the latter connecting the lever with the presser foot as clearly shown in Fig. 2. The

cam 43 is fixed to a short shaft 45 which is mounted in a bearin sleeve 46 secured to a rearwardly projectmg ear 47 on bracket 18. A lever 48 is secured between its ends per end of this lever 48 is connected by a link 50 with the enlargement 32 on the end 'of arm 24, so that the movement of the arm 24 also imparts an oscillating movement to shaft 45.

A reciprocating looper 51 is supported on the presser foot-10, and coiiperates with the needle 33 to form the desired stitch. This looper 51 is connected by a link 52 with the lower end of lever 48. This last-named connection is'by means of a slot 53 in the lever, and an adjusting screw 54 on the link, so that the stroke of the looper can be adjusted as desired.

A quarter turn folder 55 is secured to the presser foot in rear of the opening 35, so that the fabric after it is sewed by the needle '33 is folded as shown clearly in Fig.- 9, and

fed under the presser foot and sewed by the needle 56 carried by the needle bar 7 of the machine. This needle 56 reciprocates through an opening 57 in the presser foot,

and co5perates with any suitable mechanism below to form any desired stitch.

My improved device may be provided with any well known means for feeding the thread to the two different needles. I have shown tension devices 58 and 59, and thread guides 60 with an oscillating arm 61 to provide slack in the thread, but it is of course to be understood that the invention is not limited to details of this kind. I would also I have it understood that I may employ any machine with the plies 64 and 65 to be sewed, positioned vertically or at right angles to the sections 63 of the fabric as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 9, and fed between the pres'ser plate 38 and flange 36 of the presser foot "10. The upwardly projecting ply 65 is longer or higher than the other to form the necessary fold as will be described. As the fabric is fed longitudinally, the needle 33 is caused to reciprocate through the plies 64 and 65, and with the aid of the looper 51, form a line of stitching 66 through the two plies 64 and 65. As the fabric is fed forwardly, the plies 64 and 65 are folded downwardly flat against the fabric by means of the quarter turn folder 55. As the ply 65 is appreciably higher than the ply '64, it only will be turned under, so that but three thicknesses of the fabric will receive the line of stitching 67 formed by the ordinary needle 56 of the sewing machine as the fabric is fed under the presser foot 10 after having been turned by the folder 55. During the sewing operation of the needle 33, the presser plate 38 is operated by the cam 43 to clamp the fabric against the flange 36 and momentarily stop the feed of the fabric while this stitching operation takes place.

It is to be understood, of course, that the presser plate operates in unison with the needle, so that the stopping of the goods is but momentarily, just long enough to permit the necessa'ry'stitch. \Vith my improvements, therefore, it will be noted that.

the fabric can be continuously fed and receive a flat fell scam in a single operation, the needle 33 reciprocating horizo ntally providing the line of stitching 66 connecting the two pliesfiil and 65, and the needle 56 providing the second line of stitching 67 securing the plies in folded position against the fabric. v

Various slight changes might be made in the general form and arrangement of parts described without departing from my invention, and hence I do not limit myself to the precise details set forth, but consider myself at liberty to make such' changes and alterations as fairly ,fall within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

.Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The combination with a vertically movable presser foot, of two needles at an angle to each other, one needle movable through an opening in the side of the presser foot,'and a laterally movable pivotally mounted presser plate cooperating with the side of the presser foot, substantially as described.

The combination with a vertically i movable presser foot, of two needles at an angle to each other, one needle movable through an opening in the side of the presser foot, a laterally movable pivotally mounted presser plate cooperating with the side of the presser foot, and a. quarter turn folder on the presser foot between the needle openings therein, substantially as described. I

The combination with a presser foot,

of two needles at an angle to each other,

one needle movable through an opening in the side ofthe presser foot, and a pivoted presser plate carried by the presser foot and cooperating with the side of the presser foot, substantially as described.

4. A device of the character described, comprising a presser foot having a needle opening therein adapted to receive the vertically reciprocating needle of a sewing -ma-,

chine, a needle lever, a needle carried by the lever and adapted to reciprocate hor1- zontally through an opening in the side of the presser foot, and a presser plate cooperthe fabric to be sewed against the side of the presser foot during the operation of the horizontal needle, substantially as described.

6. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser bar, of a presser-,foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening therein to receive the needle of the needle bar, a needle lever pivotally supported between its ends, a horizontal needle carried by thelever, said presser foot having a flange at one side with an opening therein to receive the last-mentioned needle, and means for oscillating the a needle lever, substantially as described.

7. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser bar,

of ,a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening therein to receive.

the needle of the needle bar, a needle lever pivotally.supported between its ends, a horizontal needle carried by the lever, said presser foot having a flange at one side with an opening therein to receive the last-mentioned needle, a presser lever pivotally sup ported on the presser foot, a presser plate secured to the presser lever and adapted to press the fabric against the flange during the operation of the horizontal needle, and

means for moving the presser lever, substantially as described.

8. The combination with a sewing machine havinga presser-bar and a needle bar, with a needle at the lower end of. the needle bar, of a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening receiving the needle, a rocker shaft, means for transmitting motion from the drive shaft of the sewing machine to the rocker shaft, a needle lever pivotally supported between-its ends on the presser bar, and having a horizontal needle at its free end operatively engaging the pressel foot in advance of the firstmentioned needle, and means for transmitting motion from the rocker shaft to said needle lever, substantially as described.

9. The combination with a sewing machine having a presser bar and a needle bar, with a needle at the lower end of the needle bar, of a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening receiving the needle, a rocker shaft, means for transmitting motion from the drive shaft of the sewing machine to the rocker shaft, a needle lever pivotally supported between its ends on the presser bar, and having a horizontal needle at its free end operatively engaging the presser foot in advance of the firstmentioned needle, a reciprocating looper mounted on the presser foot and cooperating with the horizontal needle to form a stitch, and means for transmitting motion from the rocker shaft to both the needle lever and the looper, substantially as described.

10. The combination with a sewing machine having a presser bar and a needle bar, with a needle at the lower end of the needle bar, of a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening receiving the needle, a rocker shaft, means for transmitting motion from the drive shaft of the sewin g machine to the rocker shaft, a needle lever pivotally supported between its ends on the presser bar, and having a horizontal needle at its free end operatively engaging the presser foot in advance of the first-mentioned needle, means for transmitting motion from the rocker shaft to said needle lever, a presser lever pivotally supported between its ends on the presser foot, a presser plate on said presser lever adapted to press the fabric against the side of the presser foot 'during the operation of the horizontal needle, a spring normally holding the presser plate away from the presser foot, and means for momentarily moving the presser'plate toward the presser foot, substantially as described.

11. The combination with a sewing ma-- chine having a presser bar and a needle bar, with a needle at the lower end of the needle bar, of a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening receiving-the needle, a rocker shaft, means for transstitch, and means for transmitting motion from the rockersha ft to both the needle lever and the looper, a presser lever pivotally supported between its ends on the presser foot,

a presser plate on said presser lever adapted to press the fabric against the side of the presser foot during the operation of the horizontal needle, a spring normally holding the presser plate away from the presser foot, and means for momentarily moving the'presser plate toward the presser foot, substantially as described. 12. The combination with a sewing machine having a vertical reciprocating needle,

of a horizontal needle, meansfor reciproeating the horizontal needle at an angle to and in advance of the first-mentioned needle,

memes a presser foot having a vertical flange at one side against which the goods to be sewed are movable, said presser foot and flange having needle openings therein, and a quarter turnfolder on the presser foot between the needles, substantially as described.

13. A device of the character described, comprising a presser foot having a needle opening therein adapted to receive thevertically reciprocating needle of a sewing machine and also having an opening in the side thereof, a needle lever, a needle carried by the lever and adapted to reciprocate horizontally through the last-mentioned opening in the presser foot, and a quarter turn folder on the presser foot between the needles, substantially as described.

14. A device of the character described, comprising a presser foot having a needle opening therein adapted to receive the vertically reciprocating needle of a sewing machine, a needle lever, and a needle carried by the lever and adapted. to reciprocate horizontally relative to the presser foot, and a presser plate adapted'to intermittently press the fabric to be sewed against the side of the presser foot during the operation of the horizontal needle, and a quarter turn folder on the presser foot between the needles, substantially as described.

15. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser bar, of a presser oot secured to the presser bar and having an opening therein to receive the needle f the needle bar, a needle lever pivotally supported between its ends, a

horizontal needle carried by the lever, said presser foot having a flange at one side with an opening therein to receive the lastmentioned needle, means for oscillating the needle lever, and a quarter turn folder on the presser foot between the needles, substantially as described.

16. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle bar anda presser bar,

of a presser foot secured to the presser bar.

and having an opening therein torec ive the needle of the needle bar, a needle lever pivotally supported between its ends, a horizontal needle carried by the lever, said presser foot having a flange at 'one side with an opening therein-to receive the last-mentioned needle, a presser-lever pivotally supported on the presser foot, a presser plate secured to the presser lever and adapted to press thefabric against the flange during the operation of the horizontal needle,

means for moving the presser lever, and a quarter turn folder on the presser foot be tween the needles, substantially as described.

17 The combination with a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle, of a second needle, means for reciprocating the second needle at an angle to the first-mentioned needle, a quarter turn folder on the verticalflange at one side a presser foot between the needles, and a reciprocating looper on the presser foot 0 operating with the second needle to form a line of stitching in advance of the folder, substantially as described.

18. The combination with a sewing machine having a' reciprocating needle, of a second needle, means for reciprocating the second-needle at an angle to and in advance of the first-mentioned needle, a quarter turn folder on the presser foot between the needles, and a reciprocating looper on the presser foot cooperating ,with the second needle to form a line of stitching in advance of the folder, substantially as described. 19. A device of the character described,

comprising two reciprocating needles at an a presser foot having a ainst which the to be sewed are mova le, said presser and flange having needle openings angle to each other,

goods foot therein, a quarter turn folder on the presser ing looper on the presser foot cooperating operating with with the horizontal needle to form a hne of stitching in advance of the folder, substantially' as described.

21. A device of thecharacter described, comprising a presser foot having a needle opening therein adapted to receive the verneedle of a sewing matically reciprocating chine, a needle lever, a needle carried by the lever and adapted to reciprocate horizontally relative to the presser foot, and a presser plate the fabric to presser foot be sewed against the side of the during the operation of the horizontal needle, 2. quarter turn folder on I the presser foot between-the needles, and a reciprocating looper on the preser foot cothe horizontal needle to posite sides of adapted to intermittently press form a line of stitching inadvance ofthe folder, substantially as described.

22. .The combination with a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser bar, of a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening therein to receive the needle'of the needle bar, a needle lever pi'votally supported between'itsends, a horizontal needle carried by the lever, said presser foot having a flange at one side with an opening therein to receive the last-mentioned needle, means for oscillating the needle lever, a quarter turn- ,folder on the presser foot between the needles, and a reciprocating loop'er on the presser foot cooperating with the horizontal needle to form a line of stitching in advanceof the folder,

substantially as described.

23. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser bar, of a presser foot secured to the presser bar and having an opening therein to receive the needle of theneedle bar, a needle lever pivotally supported between its ends, a horizontal needle carried by the lever, said presser foot having a flange at one side withan opening therein to receive the last-mentioned needle, a presser lever pivotally supported on the presser foot, a presser plate secured to the presser lever and adapted to press the fabric against the flange during the operation of the horizontal needle, means for moving the presser lever, a quarter turn folder on the presser foot between the nee- 'dles, and a reciprocating looper -on the presser foot cooperating with the horizontal needle to form a line of stitching in advance of the folder, substantially as described.

24. A device of the character described, comprising a presser foot, a quarter'turn folder thereon, the lever constructed to intermittently clamp the goods a ainst the side of the presser foot, and nee es at opthe folder positioned at an angle to each other, substantially as described. 3 e

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

HORACE F. GRUMAN.

Wit-news: e 1

C. R. Zmemm, CHAS. E. Po'rrs. 

